ABOUT NATURAL DYES

There are endless sources of natural dye colours around us - they can be found in plants (roots and leaves, bark and heartwood, seeds and nuts, flowers, fruits and berries), minerals, lichen and fungi... even in insects. Natural colours are everywhere.

Natural dyeing is an ancient practice of extracting colour from these natural materials to naturally dye cloth and fibres. Before the accidental discovery of a synthetic dye in 1856, natural dyes and pigments were the sole source of colour. All colours came from natural sources. All textiles such as tapestries, rugs, clothing - knitted or woven, were created with naturally dyed fibers. Just think about this long history of natural dyes! They have already stood the test of time.

With the discovery of the first synthetic dye the use of natural dyes began to decline. The dyestuffs were difficult to store and it took much time to extract colours from raw materials. The rise of the synthetic dye industry throughout the world began. They were not dependent on growing season, did not have to be chipped or ground before use.

Not every natural dyestuff yields equally stable results, but we have proof of the ones that produce the most lasting outcomes. In my practice I work preferably with the classic, ancient dye plants like madder for red, weld for yellow, and indigo for blue - they produce reliable and bright primary colours and are easily grown in garden. I combine them with some of my favorites like walnut (leaves and husks), eucalyptus and cochineal, together with tannins like oakgalls, pomegranate skins and sweet chestnut leaves.

With the right preparing - scouring and mordanting, choosing the best dyeing technique, the right fiber and the best dyestuff it is very much possible to achieve a long-lasting, light- and colorfast dyeing. On the other hand, it's important to mention, that the natural dyes are alive, will evolve and can fade gradually over time. No dye is absolutely fast under all conditions. It may be fast to light, to perspiration, or to washing, but seldom fast under all three conditions. A dye may be fast on one fiber and not on another, fast when dyed by one method and not another. Wool can be dyed most easily and changes the least, cotton needs complicated processes.

It is practically impossible to duplicate the colours of textiles dyed with natural dyestuffs - many factors influence the outcome: differences in growing conditions, the area in which the plants are grown, climatic conditions, quality of soil, quality of water, pH, timing, using freshly foraged or dried materials, the drying methods, buying from different specialist suppliers, mordants…

I can say with confidence, that during these past eight years of my natural dyeing research and practice I have gained a steady knowledge of the process and I have never been disappointed with what the natural dyes are capable of. Natural dyestuffs produce one-of-a-kind colours - not two dye lots are identical - it's what makes it most rewarding and full of surprise.